Hello, Friend!

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Originally posted on Friday, May 19, 2006

Welcome to Travels with Darwin.

No, not this Darwin:
Charles Darwin

This Darwin:
Darwin.  The Jeep.

On May 28th, Helen and Jeannette will be getting up bright and early (well, I’m sure 10:00 am is bright and early SOMEWHERE), kissing loved ones g’bye, hopping into Darwin the Jeep, and heading east to discover America.

Our journey will end June 8th, when Jeannette flies back to her family and Helen is settled in her beautiful new house in West Virginia.  Check in with us often, won’t you?  Oh, and feel free to subscribe for email updates!

Day One on the Road: Vancouver, WA to Missoula, MT

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Originally posted Sunday, May 28, 2006

Day One: Vancouver WA to Missoula, Montana. Yes, we were a little slow getting started. Who could possibly have predicted that one…

After the perfect packing job, tearful farewells and parting sighs, followed by a brief recuperation at Starbucks, we headed out of town at the crack of noon. Our task: to prove we could actually get out of the state of Washington that day, depite the fact that we are “girls” and therefore know nothing about long-distance driving.

I-84 down the Columbia River Gorge was rainy and somewhat slippery. Jeannette spent several fun-filled tens of minutes working out how to use Ron’s XM satellite radio he so kindly lent us. The verdict: satellite radio is cool. However, Ron’s bookmarked taste in music reveals new and interesting insights into his personality. He’d already warned us about the hard rock & Fox News, but the Rick Astley channel was something of a surprise. Also, we were sad to notice a distinct lack of electronic music.

We headed back aross the Columbia at Umatilla, and promptly ended up going in the wrong direction through Tri-Cities, which has the most confusing road system. The highway north is pretty stunning in places – stormy blue clouds banked up behind golden hills. Got on I-90 and hoofed it through Spokane, Coeur D’Alene and ended up at our current resting place Missoula, MT. We decided to stop after a couple of twilight deer sightings (because this is what happened if you don’t).

A big shout-out to the staff at the 4-Bs Diner in Missoula, who were curious about Jeannette’s photographing a bowl of tomato soup. Want the best tomato soup in Montana? Get it here.

Book nerd section: Today we started on Phillip Pullman’s “His Dark Materials” trilogy on audiobook. Lyra Belacqua is a half-wild orphan child who lives in the hallowed halls of Jordan College Oxford in an alternative England when she spies a murder about to take place. The rest is a rollicking adventure which has kept us on edge all day, with breaks for bad country music via satellite.

Helen’s confession of the day: I know Spokane is supposed to be the armpit of the universe. But from the freeway, driving through, I thought all the old brick buildings looked kinda cool.

Family and Friend Shout Outs of the Day:

[Note to Ruby: I miss you, tiny girl - love Mama]

 

Day One: Answers to Questions on the Road

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Originally posted Sunday, May 28, 2006

Q: What does the “Alene” translate to in Couer d’Alene?

A: “Awl.” So, Couer d’Alene means “Heart of the Awl” in French.

Q: Who is Tubbs Hill, and why are people advertising (via bumper-sticker) being his friend?

A: Tubbs Hill appears to be a (or a group of) nature trail(s).

Q: What was that one Olivia Newton John song?

A: “Magic.”

 

Day Two on the Road: Missoula, MT to West Yellowstone, MT…

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Originally posted Tuesday, May 30, 2006

…via Yellowstone National Park.

Yes, if you look on the map it looks like we didn’t go very far! But actually we went all the way down to Yellowstone National Park and back. So silence, critics.

The day started (as all should) with Froot Loops and Starbucks. Our goal today was to go to Yellowstone and then cut across Wyoming on highway 14 through Cody and pick up I-90 again at Sheridan. But events conspired:

- sleepiness due to late night spent nerdily video editing
- unexpected jail stop
- bad road conditions between Yellowstone and Cody, and
- snow (yes, snow, in May).

First, the sleepiness. Guess what happens if you spend until 3am editing up a fabulous video montage of the day’s travel? (That was Jeannette. Helen was slacking off watching Adult Swim.)

Second, jail. We are trouble, it is true, but in this case it was merely happenstance that we passed a sign advertising an abandoned jail museum in Deer Lodge, Montana. This thing isscary: made of imposing stone and metal doors to hold murderous gold prospectors and other undesirables. It features two embattled lookout towers, and a chatty lady behind the souvenir counter. Helen was eyeing a little bottle of gold flakes in solution for $8 but was cheerfully informed that *real* gold was running for $200 an ounce, which made said bottle a suspect purchase. Ah, Montanan honesty.

[It should be noted that we were advised against going there, but we flagrantly ignored it (well, honestly, we saw the comment after we had gone) and I’ve posted photos to Flickr.  Unfortunately they are not in a neat little group, for there is an angry woman sitting across from me, bitter because her PC isn’t connecting to wireless as effortlessly as this mac, and her thinly veiled accusation that I am hogging the “one space” available on the wireless network sort of threw me.]
More about parts 3 and 4 later. But first, let us bore you stupid with images of the spectacular Yellowstone National Park:

Yes, it’s pretty. And there are stinky geysers and “paint pots” (mud pools), as well as buffalo, elk and sundry skunk. There appears to have been a fire several years ago, so there’s a lot of new pines (Lodgepole Pines, to be exact) with fresh green to add to the mix. The buffalo are kind of tatty, with their molting coats. Being prissy, we immediately hatched a scheme to start up a Park Ranger movement to conduct buffalo makeovers (including stylish bandanas and buffed hoof polish). We’re thinking angel investors will flock to this one.

We reached Old Faithful about 6:40pm. Still light, but a bit chilly. We decided to go to the cafe for a warm-up and to buy Helen a sweater. While we were in there, something unexpected happened: it snowed! Helen promptly called Tim on the phone in West Virginia, who confirmed he had gotten sunburned that afternoon. Clearly Yellowstone, like some members of our beloved administration, does not believe in global warming, and has decided to start an Ice Age movement instead.

This was followed by a long, complicated conversation with a park ranger, who informed us that the road to Cody had been “tore up” and we shouldn’t go there. Consultations resulted in our deciding to abort the eastern Wyoming run and return to Montana. We will pick up I-90 east again tomorrow morning and head out across the great state of South Dakota. A visit to Wall Drug is definitely in the offing (more about that tomorrow!). And Amy, if you’re reading this, I’m not sure we’ll be making it to Lincoln tomorrow: call us!!

Names captured on signs today:


Book report: Lyra Belacqua is currently staying with the Gyptians and has made a discovery concerning her heritage. We’re not saying any more in case you end up wanting to read the book.
Today’s XM satellite stations: Bluegrass Junction and 40s music.

And to top it all off, we saw cowboys! And cowgirls! Oh, and cows too.

Day Two on the Road: Video Recaps

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Originally posted Tuesday, May 30, 2006

First, the obligatory speed-driving video:

driving.mov 8.13MB

Then, join us for a tour of Yellowstone, highlighting everything that, steams, bubbles, sprays, and yes, stinks in this magnificent national park:

stink.mov 12.9 MB

Then, Ebert and Roeper style, Jeannette and Helen break it down for you in a personal narrative of the wonders of Yellowstone. And the anticipation of a public restroom. Which means we do mention the word “pee” in this video. Please be prepared.

review.mov 5.07 MB

And finally, a personal note to my kids. It’s really cheesy (more so than the rest) so I wouldn’t click on it unless your name is Ruby or Porter:

mommy.mov 8.98 KB

Day Two on the Road: Answers to our Stupid Questions

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Originally posted Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Q: What the heck is that white figure overlooking Butte, Montana? (photo later)

A: Our Lady of the Rockies

Q: Does Tim know how to check his voicemail on his cell phone yet?

A: Unknown — Tim, care to weigh in?

Q: Is Blue Sky Mining Company a real company?

A: It doesn’t appear so. Google tells us that there is a company called Blue Sky Data Mining Company, but I have a feeling that it came into existence after the Midnight Oil song.

Q: Will anyone comment on our blog?

A: Yes.  Thank you!  We are really enjoying seeing your comments and will be able to comment back when our wireless connection is better.  If anyone ever offers you satellite wireless, run away.  Far away.

Day Three: Answers to our Stupid Questions

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Originally posted Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Q: What’s the deal with castor oil and castor sugar? Where does the castor come in?

A: Castor oil comes from pressed castor beans. Castor (or caster) sugar is what Britons call superfine sugar; because it is so fine that it shakes easily from a “caster” or shaker.

Q: Crazy Woman Creek in Wyoming — what’s the story behind that?

A: There are two main legends, one of an Indian woman and one of a white woman, both who suffered terrible losses and then hung out about the creek, demented, and the Crow Indians left her alone, believing that she was either good luck, or pitying her.

Q: What’s the etymology of demon/daemon?

A: 1387, from L. dæmon “spirit,” from Gk. daimon (gen. daimonos) “lesser god, guiding spirit, tutelary deity,” (sometimes including souls of the dead), used (with daimonion) in Christian Gk. translations and Vulgate for “god of the heathen” and “unclean spirit.”

 

Day Three on the Road: Big Sky Country

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Originally posted Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Day 3: West Yellowstone, WY to Spearfish, SD.

Yesterday clearly put us back, schedule-wise. Our aim was to be in Lincoln, NE on Tuesday, but we’re still 1200 miles away. So instead, we spent the day driving through Montana, which turns out to take a very long time.

The morning was enlivened by a conversation with a nice lady we met at breakfast (we’ll call her Oh Judy, since that’s what she said when she made a mistake) and her angry republican husband (hereafter referred to as ARH). OJ and ARH are travelling cross-country like us, and it turns out they’re going to Virginia, so are following our route closely. All was pleasant until ARH suddenly revealed his intense dislike for “people coming from other countries and stealing our jobs.” Luckily OJ didn’t think this was appropriate, so we only had to hear a very small rant about how Canadians have closed their door to Americans and we should do the same thing to them and see how they like it (accusatory stare was appended, even though neither of us were Canadian. maybe we looked like Canada-sympathisers or something).

On the road, we discovered that the batteries in the video camera were flat. This was cause for much rending of garments and gnashing of teeth, followed by the realization that Helen’s snappy-camera shoots video (not very much, but still). We will most certainly be plugging in Big Cam tonight!

Montana, Wyoming and South Dakota are all astonishingly beautiful Big Sky states, and the sky is indeed big:


Montana


Wyoming


South Dakota

We chased through sunshine and thunderstorms all day, the thunderheads looming large and blue over the gold-and-sage hills (such a poetic lot, us).


Green country


Storm’s a-coming


The thunderheads


The aftermath

Near the end of today’s drive, Helen had a slight wig-attack when a deer ran across the freeway (not very close, but we were trucking at the time).

Book report: today we found out what happens to the kidnapped children in Lyra Belacqua’s world. Turns out it is so horrifying we ended up driving along the freeway sobbing our guts out for half an hour as we listened to the story developing. This book is *excellent*.

Discovery of the day: Starbucks now makes strawberry creme frappuccinos, which you can get even in the Middle of Nowhere, Wyoming.

Tomorrow: hoof it across South Dakota on I-90, pausing briefly at Wall Drug, and then cut down through Sioux something to Omaha, and thence to Lincoln. See you tomorrow night Amy!